Washington Post-Something about grain salad always helps me to cross the seasons. Like light soups, they fill me without making me feel heavy, and they can usually be drunk cold, hot, or somewhere in between.

My favorite grains for this salad are richer: brown rice or wild rice, barley, farro.

For these salads, I want something I can gnash, which excludes fluffy couscous and flying quinoa. But I also like things that are cooked quickly, this is where the broken grains come in. I was thinking about semolina, when I can find it, freekeh.

Freekeh is a grain with an interesting background story. This legend relates to the fire that burned still green wheat in the Middle East long ago. I have seen some theories linking it to acts of war, and Roxana Jullapat in her gorgeous "Mother Grains" book blamed it on two neighbors in dispute Farmers. Regardless of the truth, the important part of the story is that once the burned-out part is removed, people find that the grain is still edible.

Not only edible: please forgive the word games, but freekeh is very delicious, with a slightly chewy texture and a light smoky flavor. It can also cook in just 15 minutes or so, which makes it suitable for last-minute dinner plans. Jullapat's recipe paired it with sugar peas, raw spinach leaves, and quickly sautéed leeks and mushrooms, and added a simple lemon balsamic vinegar.

She served a cold salad in the deli box of her Los Angeles restaurant Friends & Family, but I ate it at room temperature — and I can imagine heating it in a pan or microwave as the days get closer to winter.

FREEKEH with shiitake mushrooms, leeks and peas. 30 minutes for 4 people. This grain salad is full of interesting textures: chewy freekeh, crunchy peas and slightly leathery mushrooms. If you haven't encountered freekeh, it is smoked cracked green wheat that gives the grain a subtle woody taste. If you can't find it, feel free to substitute another chewy grain, such as barley, farro, or brown rice; just cook according to the package instructions.

Make it in advance: the freekeh, peas, and leek-mushroom mixture can be cooked separately and refrigerated for up to 2 days before making the salad.

Precautions for storage: Salads can be refrigerated for up to three days.

Ingredients – 1 cup (5 ounces) freekeh – 2 cups of water – 1 1/4 teaspoons fine sea salt or table salt, divided for more flavor – 2 cups (6 ounces) sugar peas (can replace snow peas or green beans) – 1 small leek (8 ounces), white and light green parts – 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil, divided – 3 cups (5 ounces) fresh shiitake mushrooms, stalked and thinly sliced ​​– 2 cups (2 ounces) Baby Spinach – 2 tablespoons of fresh lemon juice, plus more flavors

Bake the freekeh in a medium dry pan over medium heat, toss until fragrant, two to three minutes. Add water and 1/2 teaspoon salt and bring to a boil.

Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer until the freekeh is soft, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain the excess water, then transfer the freekeh to a large salad bowl.

While the freekeh is cooking, remove the tough rope that runs along the side of each sugar peas.

Boil water in a medium saucepan, add 1/4 teaspoon salt, and blanch peas until bright green and tender, about two minutes. Drain immediately and cool completely. Cut each peas into thirds at an angle and add the freekeh in the bowl.

Cut the leek in half lengthwise, and then cut into thin half moon shapes. Put the slices in a bowl and cover with cold water to remove dirt. Using a slotted spoon or spider, remove the leeks from the water and drain them. If they are still gritty, repeat the process.

In a large frying pan, heat 1/4 cup olive oil over medium-high heat until it shimmers.

Add the washed leeks and 1/4 teaspoon salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about five minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring, until they release a liquid, darken and soften, four to five minutes. Transfer the mixture to a salad bowl and let cool.

Roughly chop the spinach and add it to the salad bowl.

Pour the lemon juice into a small bowl. Pour the remaining 1/4 cup of olive oil in a thin and stable manner while stirring vigorously. Add the remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt. Add the balsamic vinegar to the salad and stir well. If necessary, taste and add more salt and/or lemon juice to taste.

Eat at room temperature, or refrigerate and eat in the refrigerator.

Nutritional information per serving (1 1/2 cups) | Calories: 442; Total Fat: 29 g; Saturated Fat: 4 g; Cholesterol: 0 mg; Sodium: 763 mg; Carbohydrate: 41 g; Dietary Fiber: 7 g; Sugar: 6 grams; Protein: 11 grams